Weaving



r 1,643,817 Sept. 2 1927- J, R. LISTER WEAVING Filed Dec. 1, 1923 2Sheets-Sheet 1 ATT 9* 1 J. R. LISTER WEAVING Filed Dec. ,1, 1923 2Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Sept. 27, 1927.

hearse ST PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES R. LISTER, OF CLINTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO BOUBAIX MILLS,IN- CORPORATED, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

WEAVING.

Application filed December 1, 1923. Serial No. 677,932.

This invention relates generally to the n'iannfacture of woven fabricsand involves (1) a method of producing a fabricin which wefts and warpsare so associated and in- 5 terengaged that one or more strands of oneforms a core for one or more strands of the other and coordinately afabric produced by such method; the employment of such fabrics for themanufacture of tires,

collars, etc. and (3) a new method of producing a looped or pile fabricand the fabric produced by such method.

While in the description of my. invention as hereinafter to be given, itmay'appear that the first of these phases of my invention, namely, theproduction of a fabric with breads therein, is merely a step 111 the V-..stood that the two are coordinate exc'ept asotherwise specificallystated and that while the looped fabric to be herein-i after describedmay involve preliminarily the production of the fabric wlth the core asherein above referred to,

t such fabric itself may be the ultimate i do 'red of attainment.

employed the termsfcore pick, strand and core weft not as having; a 5;special significance but merely-for conr i ice to refer to the pickor'weft strand which is numbered P in the draw ings and toreadilydistinguish this pick from the other or ground picks in as short andsimple way as possible. lVhen such e oressions therefore are usedtherewith in tn 1 application and particularly in the claims, it will beunderstood merely as having its generic significance as a pick unlessthe context in'iparts or necessitatessome lim1- tative ei'iiect tosuchexpression or word;

One of the methods hitherto practicedfor the production of the loop orpilefabric has been by means of the use of what has been known as pilewires, and in this method there is employed a number of pile wires whichare introduced at predetermined points and which are so associated withthe loose warps t nit they cause these warps only requires the use ofpile wires with the consequent expense due to original invest ment,replacement and repair, but also requires a floor space that issubstantially twice that required by an ordinary loom since there mustbe to the side thereof sulficient space for the transverse movement ofthe pile wires into and out of association with the warps.

In an attempt to supplant or overcome these objections to the pile wiremethod of production. there was developed what is known as the terrymotion, in which the loops in the warp are produced as follows:

A number of picks or weft strands, two for instance, are introduced orshot across by the shuttles. The lay, by means of suitable mechanism iscaused to make a short stroke with the result that these picks are notbeaten up to the fell. Upon the addition of a further and additionalpick, .the mechanism causes the lay to give a full stroke and beat upthe picks of the fell. The picks slidealong the tight or ground warps,but the friction of the picks against the loose warp, commonly calledthe terry warp, causes the latter to be carried along by the picks asthey are beaten up, with the ling of the loose warp depends upon thefirmness of the frictional grip of the picks upon the loose warp andthis frequently differs upon the individual. warp strands due to slightvariations in tension or slight variations in the spinning of thestrands with the result that the loop formed by one loose warp strandwill be larger or smaller than that formed by an adjoining loose warpstrand with the result that more or less irregularity in the forming ofthe loops is an inherent defect of this method.

Second, there is nothing to positively control the direction of thebuckling of the loose warp with the result that individual loops may andfrequently do take a direction the reverse of that taken by the generalloop pile of the fabric, causing skips or omitted loops upon the face ofthe fabric and loop strands below the body of the fabric a defect whichit is very desirable to avoid in highly finished fabrics.

Furthermore, the use of this method of making loop fabrics requiresspecial mechanism to vary the beat-up of the lay to which the term terrymotion has been generally applied and will be so referred tohereinafter. This mechanism is anadditional installation which involvesconsiderable original cost and also necessary replacements and repairs.in addition to this, the change from the operation of the loom for thepurposes of plain weaving to that of terry weavingis one that involveslabor, expense and lost time.

Jacquard patterns, plush and carpet goods cannot be made practically bythe terry mo tion, for reasons that are understood bythose skilled inthe art, and the pile wire method must be employed for the production ofsuch fabrics.

Attempts have been made hitherto to ob tain the advantages of the pilewire method, namely, the formation of a definite loop in a definitedirection by pile wires by employ ing methods in which core strands oftextile material are introduced by means of shuttles, these core strandsserving as supplementary picks which are either removed from the weavein any preferrcdor desired manner as by being pulled out, Or are made ofa .material which permits of their removal by a carbonization processwithout affecting the main fabric structure. Such attempts have been ofvarious characters such as the introduction of supplementary picksbeneath the loose warps in aplane above that of the ground weave, thesupplementary picks bein "su)no1;ted above said plane b 1 the use ofinstrumentalilies such as distendersor platforms and the loose warpsbeing laid thereabove and being woven into the ground weave on bothsides thereof or by the introduction into the ground weave of corestrands of greater cross-sectional area than that of the ground weave.In both such cases, it will be understood that the displacing of theextrapicks on the one hand or their increased thickness outhe otherwillnecessitate an extra length of the loose warp threads being fed off thewarp beams to he looped about such core strands so that with theirremoval in a manner above pointed out there will be left the extralengthsjin the form of loops in the warp thread thus formed.

These methods of employing a core of textile material which is formedinto picks in the samemanner as are the usual. picks, it wil be observedcall either for weaving the core picks as part of the ground weave,

in which case the removal of said core pick will show in the resultingweave, or call for the use of some additional supplemental mechanism forsupporting these core picks in a. plane above that of the ground weave.VJ hen I attempted to employ such processes,

I have discovered that where an extra support is used to maintain thecore picks 1n their elevated plane, the withdrawal of such supportnecessarily renders less ellicient the action of the core pick inserving as a core about which to form the loops. For these reasons, theloops thus formed about such cores are not definitely formed in thesense in which I have above set forth and towhich further reference willbe made hereinafter.

In addition, at the present time, in the textile trade, especially inthe markets for so-called novelty fabrics, changes in styles arefrequent and difiicult to forecast, with the result that the greatdesideratar-in mills supplying such markets are processes by which theordinary loom equipment can be used without makingtime consuming andexpensive changes, or the purchase of eX- pensive auxiliary devices andattachments to meet what may in the end prove to be an evanescent demandofthe trade. Y

As my invention in one of its phases is directed to the productionof'a'fabric on an ordinary plain fabric loom, i" 'will premise that theordinary plain fabric loom is provided with wa'rpbeams upon which thestrands to form the warp are wound, there being one'or more of theseaccording to the number of warps to be used in th-efweave. The warpbeams are controlled by let-offs by means of which the feed of the warpto the.

weave is controlled, tensioning cevices being provided by means of whichthe tightness or looseness'of the warps are controlled.

Heddle frames and harness control the shedding of the-warp; a reedspaces the warp strands; a lay heats up the weft to form with thewarps-the web which constitutes the fabric; a shuttle race or railguides the weft shuttles between the warp sheds; a picker mechanismpropels the shuttles along the shuttle race or rail; a cloth beam windsup the woven fabric and a take up controls the movement of the clothbeam. Pattern chains, jacquard cards, etc, are commonly provided tocontrol the weave, driving mechanism, gearing by whiclrthe operation ofthe various parts of the loom is correlated and controlled are allcommon features of'such a loom, well "known. and their operation fullyunderstood by those skilled in the art, and are, therefore, not

further illustrated or described. and wher- I lll) ordinary part of sucha loom and the func tion of sucha part is performed in an ordinary andfamiliar method.

In my method of manufacturing the fabric, I employ a plain fabr ic loomof the character above set forth in such a way that a loop is not onlycaused to be definitely formed about a core weft but that such core weftis in the form of an extra cor-e pick which is so positioned andassociated with the ground weave that while on the one hand it is whollyindependent of the ground weave yet on the other hand it is positioneddefinitely with relationship thereto and is also supported thereby.

In the operation of an ordinary plain loom of the character which isdescribed above, the lay heats up the weft to the fell which is the lastpick woven into the web or the fabric and the parts are so associatedthat the lay moves from a predetermined point to a predetern'iinedpoint, and during such movement contacts with the pick which has justbeen shot across in front of it and beats up said pick against the fell.As will be understood the lay in this beating up process moves the pickfrom the point at which it has been put down right up against the fell,and this I will term the efi'ective throw or beating up of the picksince itis that part of tne movement of-the lay which is effective tomove the pick. After each operation of the lay, i. e. the beat-up of apick which is woven into the fabric and forms the fell thereof, thetake-up mechanism is operated to advance the woven fabric and along withit the fell so as to make room for the next pick which is to form thenew fell, and as will be understood, if the movementof the take-up isdeparted from inany respect whatsoever, the position of the fell will bealtered thereby and the spatial or positional relationship of the fellwith-reference to the next pick which is beaten up will be varied; forinstance, if the take-up should be operated to move the woven fabric agreater distance than the normal immediately before a new pick is thrownin, the ordinary beat-up of the lay will move this pick to a positionshort of the fell so that there will be a space in between; so also if apick is introduced at any time which is of materially less crosssectional area, the normal beat-up of the lay will not move this pick upagainst the. fell, but will cause it to be positioned a distance shortof the fell, depending upon the amount of decrease in its diameter; soalso if the beat-up of the lay is varied as by causing it to move for alesser distance. it will naturally position the pick short of the fell;in other words, the effective beat-up of any particular pick isdependent upon what'might be termed three 'ariants, namely, first, themovement of the lay; second, the take-up of the fabric; and

third, the thickness of the individual pick thrown in, and where thesethree factors are predetermined so as to give an ordinary ground weaveand are maintained constant,

' an ordinary ground weave will be produced these variants may be variedso as to increase the effective beat-up of the lay, that is, to causethe lay to move the cloth not only up against the fell but to tend tomove it beyond. For instance, by stopping the take-up altogether justbefore a pick is beaten-up, the lay will 'move this pick not only upagainst the fell but will tend to move it a distance beyond andas thefell is already part of the woven fabric and is maintained fixed by thecloth beam, this pick being supported, as will be set forth more fullyin the specification, on thetight warps, will be moved not only upagainst the fell but in the con tinued movements of the lay willactually move up and over the fell and position itself thereabove andupon the fabric, already woven at a point dependent upon the change invariant referred to; so also an action of this character but to a lesserextent could be attained by moving the take-up to a decreased extentrather than by merely stopping it, and a decidedly increased action canbe attained by reversing the take-up or the cloth beam or employing anyother method by whichthe fabric is caused to be moved in a reverse orbackward direction. A somewhat similar efi'ect in the effective beat-upof the pick couldbe attained by varying the effective thickness of thepick, for by increasing the thickness of the pick substantially or byemploying more than one core pick in the same shed, the beat-up willtend to squeeze it upwardly on top of the fell and a somewhat similareffect could be attained by increasing the actual movement of the laywhen beating up a predetermined pick.

I have found by relying upon the stop ping ofthe take-up as one of theimportant factors in the production of my new fabric, 1 am not onlyenabled to obtain a ground wave which is of uniform density, and willnot show on its lower face the employment of my method, but one in'which the core pick will be moved over most effectively on the fabricand maintained thereon.

My invention, therefore, broadly involves the employment of a core weftor pick and so controlling one or more of the variants as to cause thispick to position itself above the fell of the ground weave. F or theproduction of tle weave embodying the invention described herein, I havethe-loose warps anchored between spaced picks and floated over fell. Onthe other hand, any one or more of the picks therebetween, and I give tothe loose warps intermediate these locking picks the extra lengthrequired by the loop by arising the movement of the core pick over thefell as already referred to to serve to pull upon the loose warp so asto provide this excess length, thus dispensing with the neces sityemploying any let-oil mechanism. In other words, in the general methodemy d by i first lock the loose warp in i e ground weave to form therear end of the loop which is thus anchored into the ground weave andintroduce the extra or core pick beneath the loose warp and above thetight warps and when this extra or core pick is beaten up against thefell and upon and over the woven fabric in the manner already referredto it will necessarily pull off with it an extra length of the loosewarps in a manner that will be understood as the specification is readand the drawings analyzed. The loose warp is then floated over one ormore of the succeeding picks and then is again caused to be locked intothe ground weave to form the front of the loop which thus anchored tothe ground weave. As a result of this arrangement, I obtain, first, fromthe standpoint of one of the phases of my invention, nan'iely, that inwhich the core pick is to be retained, a loop which is grounded in thefabric by means of its interlock with spaced picks and in which the loopis definitely formed and maintained somewhat in the form of a ridge bythe core pick, and secondly, from another phase of my invention,nan'iely, that in which the core pick is removed, the loop which islocked into the ground 'eave by the spaced picks as alreac y stated hasits extra length and also its shape predetermined by the core pick whichis to "acved; In addition by increasing the V throw of the core pick,the extra length of the wa 'ps to provide the loops 1 obtained by theaction of the core pick eon in amanner that has been referred to wd willbe ezqolained more fully hereinafter. .ly invention therefore alsobroadly involves 1e arrangement by which the core pick is *0-manipulatcd or operated on so as to serve to pull off the excess lengthof the loose warn desired additionally involves "range ient whereby thiscore pick is i ,7 duced aediately afte the loose warp is lockedinto theground weave and additionally the arrangement whereby the loose warp isthereafter floated over one or more picks before it is locked into theground weave. I

As has already been stated, I employ for varying the effective beat-upof the core pick, a core p'ck which is of substantially increaseddiameter and which as stated it may be desired to remove by one or otherof the processes vabove referred to and that for this purpose I mayemploy a core pick made of cotton. I have, however, found that wherethis core pick is made of a cellulose fibrous base, such as oapcr, thatnot only is the core pick which is to be removed less expensive but dueto the character of this material and to the extent to which it permitsof treatment I can obtain a core pick which is of relatively greaterstiffness and rigidity 00, that it serves its function as a core pick tobe removed much more efficiently,

at least from the standpoint referred to;

l urthermore, in the use of such a pick for the manufacture of carpets,etc, by my method the pick could be colored and made to serve as a fixedpart of the weave.

I have also found by employing a core pick which is of the character ofrigidity such as is attainable by making it of a thickness and materialas set forth, I can employ my method for the manufacture of acquardpatterns, plush and carpets, since thereby I attain all the advantagesof the pile wire method.

As will be understood the fabric produced by the employment of a corepick as described, will be of a character that might be termed cordedand such corded fabric may serve effectively for various purposes suchas in the manufacture of cord tires, in which by placing the core picksclosely adjaccnt, there could be produced a fabric for cord tires inwhich there would be a firm ground and a se ies of cords placed close together on the face of the fabricand bound securely to the main cloth. Inemploying my fabric for cord tires, I superimpose layers of my fabriccut so as to position the cords either longitudinally thereabout orobliquely thereacross as on the ordinary cord tire with the successivelayers presenting the cords at an angle to each other somewhat as in theconventional type of cord tire construction. a V I I can also employ myfabric for the manin facture of the type of mens collars now in vogueand which are of a more rigid and stiffer material than a soft collar,but which when starched are not as stiff as the type known as stiffcollars. By making the under side of the ground fabric the outside ofthe collar, asmooth effect could be attained or by reversing thearrangement, a corded effect could be had.

My invention, therefore, further involves the employment ofv a core pickmade of a material such as that mentioned and which permits of its beinggiven a relative rigidity and stiffness, and where its ready removaltherefrom is desired, the core pick used may possess further acharacteristic which wil permit of this.

For the attainment of these objects and of such other objects that mayeither hereinafter appear or be pointed out, I have illustrated theproduction of a weave embodying my invention in the drawings whereinFig. 1 is a vertical section through the weave taken parallel to thewarps with core picks inserted Fig. 2 is a similar View of therelationship of a loose warp thread to the picks with the tight warpthreads omitted;

Fig. 3 and Fig. i are views similar to that of Fig. 2, but each showingthe relationship of a different one of the tight warp threads to thepicks;

Fig. 5 is a top plan view looking down upon the weave of Fig. 1;

Fig. 6 is a section through the weave similar to that of Fig. 1 with thecore picks removed;

Fig. 7 and Fig. 8 are sections similar to that of Fig. 1 throughmodifiedforn'is of the weave; and

Fig. 9 is a section showing the plane in which the core pick is laid.

Upon viewing the drawings it will be ob served that I have illustratedin Figures 1 to 5 a weave in which there are employed three warps, twoof which are made up of tight warp threads and the third, of loose warpthreads,and four wefts, three of which are made up of ground picks andthe fourth of which is made up of core picks, and as I have illustratedin the Fig. 6 of the drawing a weave such as that illustrated in Figures1 and 5 with the core picks removed, it will be understood, (first) thatthe weave illustrated in the drawings and made up of the picks andthreads as just mentioned is so shown and described merely as showingone embodiment and that in so far as my invention as claimed permits,such specific disclosures are intended to be only illustrative and notlimitative; and (secondly), that While the fabric of Fig. 8 may at timesbe herein referred to and may in fact be intended as the ultimatecompleted fabric, yet it will be understood that the fabric of the otherfigures may also be the ultimate completed fabric and that therefore anyreference to removing of the core picks in the fabric of Fig. 1 toproduce the fabric of Fig. 8 is not intended to meanthat the fabric ofFig. 1 is not a completed fabric in itself, but that by such removalanother and additional fabric is produced.

I will now describe how I employ a plain loom of the character such asset out above for the manufacture of my new weave employing my newmethod referred to.

Upon viewing Figure 1, it will be observed that I have illustrated myinvention in a weave in which I employ three warps, two of which aretight warps and will be hereinafter referred to as tight or groundwarps, and one of which is a loose warp and from which the loops are tobe formed and which will be referred to as the loose or wefts, three ofwhich form the ground weave and will be hereinafter referred to asground weft threads or picks and a supplemental weft thread about whichthe loose warp is looped and which will hereinafter be referred to asthe core weft or pick.

in my method 1 form the ground weave and associate therewith in themanner shortly to be pointed out one or more loose warps and core picksin such a manner as to cause the production of the weave of Fig. 1, andso that the manner of my employment of the ordinary type of plain fabricloom may be understood, I will start with the beating up of the pick Pin Fig. 2, opposite which there appears the arrow,

it being understood that the fell is already formed about the pick P tothe right thereof. As this pick 1 is beaten. up, the tight warp W? isshed up and the tight warp shed down, so that this pick P is positionedtherebetween and as for the next beat-up, the shed of these two tightwarps is reversed the pick P is locked between the warps and in theground as will be understood and as will be seen from the drawings, andwill therefore serve as what might be termed an anchor pick. The shed isthen reversed (asalready stated) for the beat-up of the next pick is.The warp W now being up and warp l/V being down so that the pick P isabove both tight warp and the loose warp IN and is beneath the tightwarp The shed is now changed so that the tight warps are both down andthe loose wrap is up for the introduction of the core pick P. This corepick P is made of a diameter that is many times greater than that of theordinary ground picks,'and as it is beaten up, the lay will not onlytend to moveit up against the pick P which is already woven into thefabric and forms the fell thereof, but will tend to move it therebeyond,and insuch movement, the tight warps W and W which are therebeneath willnot only form .a support therefor butwill also serve to guide this corepick P upwardly'and to some extent over upon pick P and in order tostillfurther increase the effective throw of this core pick by the layso as to cause it not only to position itself above the pick P but tocarry the loose or loop warp with it, I stop the take up of the clothafter the beat-up of pick P so that the fell formed aboutthepick P isnot moved as the result ofwhich it necessarily follows that theeffective throw of the I about in the manner set forth will cause thiscore pick to position itself above and to be supported upon the fabricalready formed and will also pull with it, as it were, the loose warpwhich is disposed thereabout and will thus tend to form at least to theright thereof a definite loop formation, the completion of which willtake place as shortly to be pointed out. The shed of the two tight warpsis then reversed for the introduction of pick P restoring them to whatthey were when pick P was introduced, so that due to the fact that thecore pick P is raised up and out of the ground Weave even though areversal of the picks took place between the introduction of picks P andP yet in fact they are in the same shed. The shed of the tight warps areagain reversed for the introduction of pick P which as already describedforms the anchor pick and for the introduction of the next pick, namelypick P not only is the shed of the tight warps reversed but the loosewarp is shedded beneath this pick so that not only will this pick? serveto anchor the loop formed about the core pick P but will also tend totighten said loop about said core so that thereby a loop ispredeterminedly and definitely formed about said core pick Upon viewingFig. 1, it will be observed that the weave comprises a ground weave madeup of the two tight. warps it and Va and of the ground picks P P and Pwhich are interlocked therewith to form the ground weave. The loose warpll is interlocked in this ground weave by means of the ground pick P theloose or terry warp being shedded above picks it 3 and P It will also beobserved that the loose warp W is looped about the core pick P which ispositioned above the ground pick P and serve not only to force thelooseness of the loose warp W over the ground pick l but also serves tocause the loop and the loose warp W to be definitely formed thereaboutand to conform to the configuration and dimensions of the core pick P Itwill further be understood that the ground pick P in its movement abovethe fabric already woven,will' not only serve to pull the necessaryextra length of loose warp thread from off its beam, thus dispensingwith the necessity for any special let off mechanism therefor, but willalso pull off only sufficient extra length as is required by thatparticular core pick;

I have thus produced a fabric illustrated in Figures 1 and 5 which is ofa character that might be termed a combined ridged and looped fabric,and if desired this fabric, after going through the necessary finishingoperations, may be used in the form in which it has been finished, asalready described and as shown in these figures.

It will be understood, of course, that'one of the essential features inthe production thereof is the variation in the effective throw of thecore pick which as already mentioned may be attained by the variation inany one or more of the factors that go to determine this effective throwand which in the description thus far given involves-the employment of avery much thicker core weft and in a variation in the action of thetake-up, which I have stated for the purposes ofillustration is securedby stopping the take-up before this core pick is thrown in.

Thetake-up is generally controlled by a gear which has upon it as manyteeth as there are picks to the inch and which gear' is moved one toothafter each throwing in of a pick so as to move the cloth for a lengthcorresponding to the increase in length of the woven cloth, upon theinsertion of an additional pick and this step by step operation of thegear is secured in a well known manner and need not be de scribed orillustrated here. Unless this gear is held against reverse movement, theweight of the parts and the tension of the fabric and of the beams willbe such as to cause it to move back reversely for the distance for whichit has been advanced and for preventing this, a detent pawl is generallyasso ciated therewith in a well known manner so to prevent such reversemovement. I have attained the-desired stopping of the take-up byrendering this holding pawl inoperative so that when the gear isadvanced for the take-up it will move back to its original position withthe moving pawl so that there is no take-up and in effect the take-up isstopped. This I taching a string to this holding pawl which is connectedto a jackor lever on the head motion and which is operated in exactlythe same manner as is the harness, that is, when the pawl is required tobe lifted so that there shall be no take-up, the lever is forced up anddraws forward and upward attain by at the cord attached'tothe pawl onthe follow.-

ing pick. It drops down again and operates in the regular way for threepicks when the same operation is repeated.

Where, however, it is desired to produce what is wholly a looped fabricfrom the weave of Figure 1, this can be attained by removing the corestrandsor picks therefrom in any desired or preferred manner as bypulling them out or by carbonization, which can be done by making thewarps and the ground weaves of one character Ofdfiitterial such as ofanimal fibres and making the core weft of a character of material suchasvegetable fibres so that by chemical treatment of the core strandbefore weaving or of the fabric a a whole after the weaving process iscompleted, the core strand of vegetable fibre can be removed bycarbonization and washing. For this purpose the core strand may be madeof cotton fibre which is acted upon by a chemical such as hydrochloricor sulphuric acid to permit of its removal in the manner set forth.

I have found, however, that I may use core strands of paper or a papercomposition which can be removed substantially in the same manner ascana cotton pick yet possesses certain advantages which may suggest theadvisability of its use, and among these are the fact that a pick madeof paper fibre will be stiffer than one made of cotton and will thuspermit of the formation of the desired loop in a more definite mannerand at the same time the cost of such fibre is less.

the removal of this core in any desired or preferred manner such as setforth, I obtained the fabric of Figure 6, which, while it in manyrespects resembles the character of loop fabrics hitherto produced, yethas its loops formed definitely and uniformly both as to size andcontour and shape and results in a fabric in which "the loops are allsymmetrically arranged on either or both sides the fabric as may bedesired.

Upon viewing the various figures of the drawing, it will be observedthat due to the manner in which my fabric is woven, the back of theground weave will be of uniform texture and will not indicate thepresence of the superposed associated picks P and loops in the warp norwill the fabric when the pick I is removed vary in any respect from sucha fabric woven by a method such as the terry motion except as alreadypointed out.

Upon viewing the Figure 1 of the drawing, it will be observed that thepick P is superposed above the pick P and that the loose warp W isanchored in the ground weave beneath; the pick W then passes around andthereabout to a positionbetween the two picks and then in areverse direction around the upper pick P around and thereabove and is then floatedover picks P and P and is again anchored in the next pick P It will befurther observed that due tothe manner of association with picks P andP, the loose warp forms what 1s in effect an ogee curve about thesepicks. As has al- 4 ready been explained, this effect is produced by thefact that in my method the pick P as it is beaten up by the lay movesinto contact with the loose warp adjacent its point anchorage in theground weavebeneath the pick P and in its further movement up and overthe pick P carries the loose warp with it so that in this manner I candispense with any mechanism for letting off the loose warp and candepend wholly upon the pulling action of this pick P to supply the extralength of warp necessary to form the loop.

In Figure 7 I have illustrated a modification in which the loose warp Whas been anchored successively beneath the two ground picks P P' andover 1 instead of beneath one pick as in Figure 1. I thereby attain afirmer anchorage for the loose warp threads which will be of particularutility where a cut pile fabric is desired.

In Figure 8 I have illustrated a modification in which I employ the twocore picks p instead of the one core pick P of Figure 1. These two picksare each laid in suc- 'cessively as described in connection with thepick P of Figure 1. I thereby secure a loop which is more uniformlyshaped and further am enabled to use less weight in the core picksemployed.

Having thus described my invention and illustrated its use, what I claimas new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The process of weaving a fabric which comprises weaving a groundfabric of tight warp threads and ground weft threads and interlocking aloose warp thread therewith, laying in a core pick over said ground warpthreads and under the loose warp thread and causing said loose warpthread to be positioned over said core pick and one or more of theground weft threads.

2. The process of weaving a fabric which comprises weaving a groundfabric of tight warps and ground wefts and interlocking a loose warpthread therewith, laying in a,

core pick over said ground warps and beneath the loose warp thread andthen causing said core pick to be moved over on top of the fabric.

3. The process of weaving a fabric which includes the step or steps ofweaving a ground fabric of tight warps and of ground wefts andinterlocking a loose warp thread therewith, laying a core pick overtight warps and beneath the loose warp thread, and causing said corepick to be given a movement forwardly and upwardly of the plane of theground weave so as to cause an extra length of the loose warp thread tobe fed from the loose warp beam.

a. The process of weaving a fabric which comprises weaving a groundfabric oftight warps and ground wefts and interlocking a loose warpthread therewith, laying in a core pick above the ground warps and belowthe loose warp thread and varying the effective beat-up of said corepick.

5. The process of weaving a fabric which comprises weaving a groundfabric of tight warps and ground wefts and interlocking loose warpthreads therewith, laying in a core pick above the ground warps andbelow the loose warps and increasing the effective beat-up of said corepick.

6. The process of weaving a fabric which comprises weaving a groundfabric of tight warps and ground wefts and interlocking loose warpthreads therewith, laying in a core pick above the ground warps and below the loose warps and increasing'the effective beat-up of said corepick by employing a core pick of increased diameter.

'2. The process of weaving a fabric which comprises weaving a groundfabric of tight warps and ground wetts and interlocking loose warpthreads therewith, laying in a core pick above the ground warps andbelow tie loose warps and increasing the effective beat-up of said corepick, by employing a core pick of increased diameter and stopping thetake-up.

8. The process of producing an extra length on a loose warp thread topermit of the formation of a loop therein which includes the step orsteps of anchoring the loose warp thread on the ground weave, andcausing a wett thread to move against said loose warp thread adjacentits point of anchorage and in a direction to cause an extra lengththereot to he let oi? the loose warp beam.

9. The process of providing; an extra length on a loose warp thread,which includes the step or steps of ancl'iorinp; the loose warp threadin the ground weave and causing a pick to move against said loose threadadjacent its point of anchorage and upward and over said point ofanchorage.

1.0. The process of providing an extra length on a loose warp thread topermit of the formation of a loop therein which 1nchides the step orsteps of anchoring the loose warp thread in the ground weave, and

causing a pick of greater thickness than that of the ground picks tomove against said loose thread adjacent its point of anchorage and in alirection to cause an extra length thereoi to be let oil" the loose warpbeam.

11. The process of providing an extra length on a loose warp threadwhich includes the step or steps of anchoring loose warp thread in theground weave and then applying pressure to said thread adjacent itspoint of anchorage and in the direction of the woven fabric to force anextra lengthof thread from off the loose warp beam.

12; The process of producing an extra length on a loose warp threadwhich includes the step or steps of anchoring the loose warp thread inthe ground weave, and causing a plurality of picks to be movedsuccessively against said loose thread adjacent its point of anchorageand in a direction to cause an extra length thereof to he let off theloose warp heain.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name.

Jar ms n. Lrs'rna

